The last month has seen summer hit South Wales with some amazing weather. In fact it feel like a long time since the days of endless rain that typically hit these shores. And for the first time in a long time the sea is actually warm! When I say warm, I mean going for a swim with out the need of a wetsuit is an attractive proposition. With this the opportunity to take on some our regions sea cliffs with out the normal ropes and equipment to protect us has become an amazing realisation, with deep water soloing becoming the daily challenge.

Seadog at Ogmore

This is a side to climbing that I love, yet the last few years I have only dabbled with at home in Wales. Yes we have been to the world class DWS venues of Mallorca but close to home we have our own wealth of sea cliffs that have limitless potential for those who don’t mind a splash down or two.

Splash Down

Last year I finished my project in Stallion Cove, but due to the water always being on the chilli side and the remote location I could not give this route the time it deserved. Truth be told I probably spent around 8 session’s on it over 4 years (if you know anything about my normal siege tactics this is a blink of the eye) and in the end I elected to give up on a Ground Up ascent and used a rope to pre inspect the line and work the moves until a solo was finally possible. This was frustrating as I had abandoned the purity of a ground up ascent, but constantly battling the cold water resulted in only having one or two goes a session it seemed the best way forward. This year however Ground up ascents are a real opportunity!

Me on FA of ‘Anabell F7c+’ Stallioncove

It all began a few weeks ago when Chris Shepherd returned from Uni and as ever was crazy psyched for some climbing. This boys is MOTIVATED! when he suggested a trip to Pembroke for some DWS he struck gold in a big way.

Rhos at Kato Zawn

We set off with Rhos and headed straight for Newton Head, forgetting that this was in fact a firing range for the MOD and access is restricted at certain times. So as soon as  we saw the red flag flying, our early plans were dashed. Quickly a ‘Plan B’ was hatched,  Kato Zawn is a fun spot I had been to in 2007 and established a new line ‘Bruce Lee’ whilst climbing almost all of the existing lines. Fortunately I had just enough recolection of the crag to find our way and we soon found our selves on top of the veiwing area.

After a quick warm up I soon found myself in the sea after a foothold broke and from there the fun began. DWS really comes into its own when you accept falling in as part of the process, to many people try and avoid this for as long as possible but this will only hold you back. Most of the time I will go for a swim first just to get it over and done with and my climbing is improved massively due to this.

Mikey on ‘Black Mass 7B’ at Breakfast Zawn

As the tide Dropped Rhos and Chris battled their way up a 7b+, With Rhos narrowly missing the final hard move and Chris proving that persistence pays off! But with this first outing the hook was set and over the next few days and weeks we have been to many great locations.

Breakfast Zawn also in Pembroke gave us a few hours of entertainment with ‘Black Mass 7B’ and ‘Black Mass Direct 7C’ being the routes of the day, both are classics! Even Ogmore saw an evening session, unfortunately the tide was not quite high enough to attempt ‘Davey Jones Locker’ but the large roofs to the left proved hours of entertainment.

Chris pulling through the steep caves of Ogmore

Finally a late night visit to Giants Cave on Gower, and a return battle with Madam Butterfly. The crag is an ideal first time DWS spot with gently overhanging walls and only a modest hight, unfortunately after Pembroke and Ogmore it felt more like bouldering than soloing. Regardless this route had me in the drink several times last year which had been frustrating as I had climbed it with a rope years previous yet the sequence around the roof was baffling me?

Me on Madam Butterfly at Giants Cave

This time after a quick few splash downs into a turbulent sea the lip was unlocked and the route dispatched, The difference? I found my way instead of trying to copy Ashleigh Wolsey-Heard’s sequence  from a few seasons ago, sorry ash your way is nails!

Any way here is a gallery of some shots from South Wales DWS ill add some more to it over the coming days…. maybe weeks if the weather stays like this!