So it feels like I can’t catch my breath this month, with so much going on as the weather finally turns to summer. Bouldering and climbing have taken centre stage with a few of us exploring some less frequented spots.
The Presell Hills are made up over a stunning ridge line on the north Pembrokeshire coast and have a long history of bouldering. For my part I used to climb here when I was working as a coasteering guide in the area some 15years ago but had long since forgotten how magical place it was. The hills are famous for being the are that the great stones that make up stone henge are from, this is still finale mind boggling as it is logistically and physically unfathomable how it was done.
The climbing is situated along a series of Tors similar to dartmoor in look but with a much friendly to climb feel. the rock it self is known as Preseli Spotted Dolerite but is often referred to as Bluestone, in fact a number of local attractions and a beer share its name. The ridge line offers incredible views across Cardigan bay and is relatively quite being in such a remote area. But for South Wales the bouldering is fantastic, for once being on aesthetic blocs instead of the bottom of the crag stuff we find so much in the region. Also the quality of the rock is very high with almost no loose rock and very little cleaning required.
Very little of the area has been mapped out form a guide point of view although it undoubtedly has been climbed upon in parts, with the most well known area of Mynydd Dinas featuring in ‘Boulder Britain’ guide some years back.due to this the are has a great feel of adventure and unknown as each of the hills may hold the next great line. This has been one of the best thing about moving to Pembroke, not knowing what is around the next corner and being surprised each and every trip out.
Whilst staying on the bouldering front we also scoped out Newgale which had some stuff of interest including a fun little font 7a and probably a bit more next time we make a visit but unfortunately the main bloc that is featured in the guide has been lost to a land slide. The caves towards the north end of the beach also held some interest and maybe more so later in the summer when they will have dried out more.
Newgale has been a surprise for me, as I have spent quite a bit of time here over winter and spring. Having previously discarded the beach for surfing and climbing I have since found that although not amazing for either it is certainly worth more attention and I’m sure it will yield more results on the bouldering front.
Moving on to stuff a bit higher and its a similar story with two trips to two venues I had previously visited many years ago. The first being Telpyn, which I can see becoming a bit of an evening favourite as its super quick for us to visit and the dogs love running around on the beach. The cliffs are pretty much vertical in the main and offer some fantastic routes mostly in the mid 6’s through and up to mid 7’s. It is far better than I had remembered and as there is quite a bit still for me to do whitch should provide some fun over the summer.
Pendine on the other hand is firkin sweet! I had checked this out prior to the development here but then moved away from the area. Roy, Goi and possibly a few others have spent some years developing an amazing climbing area which reminded me of Whitches point nr Ogmore.
So Much work has been done that I felt like a kid in the sweet shop wandering around deciding what line to pic. Unfortunately and fortunately it would turn out my visit had conceded with possibly the hottest day of the year, and my climbing suffered as it felt like I was simply melting of routes. But it was great fun with one of the 6c’s rating amongst the best I have climbed in South Wales. On the plus side swimming on Mortha beach was a great way to cool down and the beach felt like a great place to hang out while waiting for your tidal window so I will be back here plenty over the coming months.